Sandor UK Tour September 2019

Sandor is getting ready to travel to the UK for an intensive workshop tour. His schedule will be as follows:

Sept 14-15   Hawarden, Flintshire, Wales Good Life Experience Festival

Sept 16         London   College of Naturopathic Medicine

Sept 18         Welbeck, Nottinghamshire The School Of Artisan Food

Sept 19         London     The Store X

Sept 21         Abergavenny, Wales  Abergavenny Food Festival



Traditional Norwegian Farmhouse Brewing

Our friend Amund Polden Arnesen, a Norwegian beer-maker,  shared the following information about a traditional farmhouse beer known as Maltøl:
 
The Norwegian tradition for farmhouse brewing has survived particularly on the west coast and in the middle part of Norway. In Stjørdal they still malt their own barley in specially built traditional malting houses on the farms called “Såinnhus”. They use direct fire with alderwood to dry the malt. Some of them also use a juniper infusion, called Einelåg, made from juniper branches as brewing water.
 
Their traditional yeast is unfortunately gone so they use bakers yeast or yeast from the local lager brewery. In Hornindal, Voss, Sogn and Møre on the west coast of Norway though they still keep their farmhouse yeast which they call Kveik. How old some of these strains are and how many generations they go back we are not sure of. We are also unsure of their origins, only that they are not of modern and laboratory pedigree. These yeast are traditionally pitched at close to 40 C which sounds insane to a modern brewer, but produces some interesting flavours in the beer.  Beer made with one strain I had made an orange liqueur flavour that I have never gotten from any modern yeast strain.
 
Many of these brewers make raw beer (not boiled), with makes for a different malt flavour and mouth feel. If one looks at what these Norwegian farmers have been doing through generations it in respect to the modern way of producing food and beverage products most of it doesn´t make sense. But if one tries to think like a farmer would it suddenly makes perfect sense. Take the fermentation temperature as an example. What is the most exact temperature one can measure without a thermometer that is closest to a good fermentation temp? Body temperature of course, and there anthropological surveys made in the fifties where the farmers were asked at what temperature they added the Kveik. An answer that pops up quite frequently is “milk warm”, a reference a farmer would know like the back of his hand.
 
For more information, check out Amund’s full article.
 

A wreath used to store yeast

A juniper infusion

 


Aged Almond Cheese

This week, teaching in Buenos Aires, Argentina, I tasted the best, cheesiest vegan cheese I have ever encountered. It was made by one of the students in my workshop, Nico Salguero. He generously explained his process to me in some detail.

 

Soak almonds in water for about 24 hours.

Remove skins.

Sprout the soaked almonds for about 2 days, rinsing periodically to keep them moist, but draining so they have access to air.

Grind almonds with fermented coconut milk yogurt or kefir, just enough to grind it into a thick paste. As an alternative he suggests rejuvelac of alfalfa.

Ferment for 24 hours at about 25°C/77°F.

Form into desired shape.

Dehydrate for about four days at a low temperature, about 20°C/68°F. The idea is to form a dry crust so it is easy to handle for the next steps, while the cheese retains moisture inside so fermentation can continue.

Submerge cheese in seawater or brine. Beginning on the fourth day of dehydration, and continuing for three days longer, submerge the cheese in brine three times each day. This is exactly how many aged dairy cheeses are salted. If you’re mixing a brine. mix it at about 5%, or 50 grams of salt for a liter of water.

After the salting, dehydrate about 5 more days at a low temperature, about 10°C/50°F. If you don’t have a dehydrator that can do this, the refrigerator will work.

Age cheese for 3-6 months at cool ambient temperatures.

According to Nico, it is possible to make this as a blue cheese by using a pin to insert blue cheese molds into the interior of the cheese after the initial dehydration.

Rather than addressing questions to me, please direct them to Nico: nicolasrsalguero[at]gmail.com. [Note: Spanish is his native language and his English is limited]



People’s Republic of Fermentation

I traveled to China in November-December 2016 in order to learn about fermentation practices there. I travelled there with my friend Mara King, her mother Judy, and another friend, Mattia Sacco Botto, who documented our travels on video. They all speak Mandarin and English, and share my fermentation and broader food interests. These eight videos, made by Mattia Sacco Botto, document some of what we saw and learned on our journey.



Sandor on the BBC

http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b08xxfz5

Sandor Katz has been enchanted by fermentation, the mysterious process by which microbes transform food and drink, for some two decades. Since making his first crock of sauerkraut, his fascination withfermentation has broadened, deepened, and he now travels the world giving workshops. Based in Tennessee, his books including ‘Wild Fermentation’ and the encyclopaedic ‘The Art of Fermentation’ have helped many thousands of people to get started with making their own ferments, experimenting with flavours, fruits, vegetables, spices… and microorganisms.

Dan Saladino travels to Sandor’s forest home in rural Tennessee to meet Sandor, hear his story, and discover for himself the transformative, delicious potential of these mostly simple culinary processes.

Coming up in a future edition of The Food Programme, a practical masterclass in fermentation with Sandor Katz.



Bodai Moto-Zukuri Saké

Bodai Moto-Zukuri Saké

In December I visited the Terada Honke Brewery (http://www.teradahonke.co.jp/english.htm) in Chiba Prefecture in Japan, where they make incredibly delicious 100% wild fermented saké using very traditional methods and no pure strain starters. I spent a day observing, tasting, and talking with brewmaster Masaru Terada, the 24th generation brewmaster there. (See photos of my visit there at https://www.instagram.com/sandorkraut/)

Masaru-san described to me a simple ancient method of making saké, which he called Bodai-Moto-Zukuri that sounded so simple I had to try it as soon as I got home. I’m very pleased with the results!

Saké brewed at home in two weeks without any special equipment. In a bottle from Terada Honke Brewery, where i was told about this method, Bodai Moto-Zukuri.

Saké brewed at home in two weeks without any special equipment. In a bottle from Terada Honke Brewery, where i was told about this method, Bodai Moto-Zukuri.

The only ingredients are rice and water. I used 1.5 kg/3 lbs of rice altogether to make about 3 liters/quarts of saké. Some of the rice is in the form of koji, molded rice; see Art of Fermentation for info on making koji, or buy it.

The whole process took about 2 weeks.

The only equipment you need is a vessel with a capacity of at least 6 liters/1.5 gallons, and two cloth or mesh bags with mesh fine enough to hold rice.

Steam 500 g/1 lb rice.

Fill mesh bags: Transfer the steamed rice to a mesh bag, and place 500 g raw rice in the other bag.

Submerge: Fill vessel with 2 liters dechlorinated water and submerge the two bags of rice. The cooked rice will decompose into the water, providing nutrients for the yeast and bacteria on the raw rice.

Gently massage bag of cooked rice for a few minutes each day.

Taste after a few days. It’s time for the next step when it’s bubbly and starts to taste a little sour. For me this took four days.

Remove bags of rice from the water, and retain liquid that drains from them.

Steam the soaked raw rice.

Cool until still warm but comfortable to the touch.

Mix warm rice with 500g/1 lb koji, as well as the original cooked rice that has been soaking. Mix the three different forms of rice together thoroughly.

Return rice to water in vessel.

Stir daily.

Ferment 10 days to 2 weeks, tasting periodically.

Strain.

Enjoy!





German Fermented Gingerbread Cookies

From a German reader, Peter Schottler (email info [at] kulturata.de):

Fermented Gingerbread

Traditional German Christmas Cookies used to be made with fermented Lager Dough which was prepared around August and left to ferment until baking time in November / December.

This is a mostly forgotten art. This is very simple to make, with delicious results: Cookies with a very subtle, fine texture.

In August/September/October you prepare the basic dough without any spices/ dried fruit/nuts/leavening, which are all added later, when you bake the fermented gingerbread.

Traditionally, this kind of luxurious gingerbread cookie is baked on wafers. I use round wafers with a diameter of 70mm and I baked 530 gingerbread “Ellisen-Lebkuchen” this year – as they make a Christmas present you can’t easily buy, with an exquisite taste.

As I assume you want to start with a small quantity the first time, I’ll give you a small recipe.

For the Lager dough you need:

1 kg of organic blossom honey
1 kg of treacle (dark sugar syrup from beetroots)
2 kg of organic flour (I use spelt flour of a type between wholemeal and white)

That is all, if you want to rely on wild fermentation, which is the ‘old way’ to do it – that is to rely on the fungi, yeasts and bacteria from the organic flour and the organic blossom honey and to a lesser extent of the beetroot-syrup“ (Zuckerrübensirup) I use.

You take a large stainless steel pot with a lid, slowly warm the honey and the treacle to up to 37°C/99°F to make it easier to stir/knead in the flour. (This being the temperature in a bee hive, in the human body, and a temperature lactic acid bacteria like best – well, the ones I have spoken to…)

Once you have mixed the three components to form a dough, you put the lid on the pot and leave it to ferment in a cool spot for a few months.

Once November or December have come, you might want to bake your gingerbread cookies.

I take a portion from the dough, put it in a large baking bowl and place the bowl on a water filled pot on my stove for a few hours to get slightly warm so that I can knead in the things I want to knead in.

These will be:
− a pinch of salt
− 2 or 3 or… tablespoons full of „gingerbread spice“
− candied lemon and orange peel
− candied fruit (ginger, cherries, dates…) all cut into small pieces
− ground or chopped almonds, cashew nuts, walnuts etc.
− chopped dark or milk chocolate
− maple syrup
− ground cardamom, cinnamon, pepper, cloves, a little nutmeg, allspice, coriander, ginger (if you cannot buy “mixed gingerbread spice”), ground (organic) vanilla

Once you have mixed your dough with these goodies the next step is to add 2 leavenings. In Germany we use 2 tablespoons of “Hirschhornsalz” (hartshornsalt, ammonium carbonate) dissolved in a little lukewarm milk, stir that into the dough, followed by 2 teaspoons of potash (potassium carbonate), also dissolved in lukewarm milk and stirred in. If these are not available, use 2 tablespoons of baking powder and 2 teaspoons of baking soda.

Add a little more water or – more likely – some organic flour to get the dough to a consistency that enables you to form little balls of dough with a teaspoon and your hand which you then put on a wafer on a baking tray and press it to form a pancake shape. The cookie will rise a bit perhaps by 100% in height and a bit less in width. You’ll find out the right amount of dough for each wafer soon. About the amount of the size of a walnut?

Bake at 180°C/350°F on the lowest shelf for 15 to 18 minutes. Don’t bake your gingerbread too dark – just nice and brown. Cool on a rack with good air circulation.

Then, the next day, you can proceed if you wish and add the icing / chocolate coating.

My favourite is a gingercake with lots of candied orange and lemon peel, candied ginger, walnuts, sliced dates, cashewnuts, chopped chocolate, covered in a chocolate coating of molten chocolate which we call “couverture” with a French word.

But I also like this icing:

250 grams/1/2 pound powdered suger
1 or 2 tablespoons of organic lemon juice
4 or 5 tablespoons of raspberry (or other red) juice
2 handfuls of dried red rose petals

In a mixing bowl mix the lemon juice, raspberry juice and dried red rose petals.
Use an immersion blender to cut the petals into very fine pieces in the juice, which can take about 3 to 4 minutes.
Add the powdered sugar until you get a thick icing which you can use to “paint” your cookies. The raspberry juice makes the mixture a pastel pink, in which the darker red rose petal pieces give you nice red dots – and the lemon juice the much needed zing.

Kept in airtight containers (metal boxes, jars…) the gingerbread cookies would keep until Easter. ; – )

If they should get a bit hard, put half a small fresh apple into the container, which will give them some moisture back.





Cucumber & Nasturtium Kimchee

Both cucumbers and nasturtiums can be found in full production side by side in the garden, and they combine very well for a light tasty kimchee.  Cucumber kimchee is ready to eat immediately and has a very short shelf life.  It’s a quick and simple kimchee that is very refreshing and easy on the palate.

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Ingredients:

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1 or 2 thin-skinned cucumbers, sliced.

1 small clove fresh garlic, crushed.

1 dozen or so green nasturtium seeds, crushed.

1 dozen or so nasturtium blossoms, whole.

1 T. plus 1 pinch of sea salt.

1 dash fish sauce.

1 pinch red pepper flakes.

1 dash kimchee juice, as starter.

 

 

 

 

Method:

Salt sliced cucumber with 1 T salt. Let sit for an hour or 2.  Discard salty brine, rinse salt away using fresh water and drain of excess water.  Add crushed garlic and nasturtium seeds, pinch of salt, dash of fish sauce, blossoms, red pepper flakes and kimchee juice and mix well. Pack in a sturdy jar and let ferment a few hours to overnight.  Enjoy immediately or refrigerate to slow the fermenting process.

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